We’ve had quite a few questions lately regarding sizing down on A.P.C denim. A.P.C have quickly become a market leader when it comes to quality, raw denim. Their exceptional quality standards and contemporary cuts mean jeans can be worn for years if cared for properly. Hopefully this guide can answer a few questions!
When you first buy a pair of raw A.P.C jeans, they will be ridiculously stiff. Rest assured though, they will soften up in under 30 wears (around 2 weeks if you wear them every day). This doesn’t mean that they will wear down and become flimsy, it means that the jeans will adhere to your body and your lifestyle and become more comfortable the more you wear them. A.P.C’s selvedge denim is a tough fabric and the only real way to rip or damage them heavily is to do splits or stretch the fabric too much.
One of the main things you want to get right when buying any pair of jeans is the sizing. With APC many people will recommend that you size down from the tagged size as the jeans are cut usually a size or two bigger than what they are tagged. This is known as vanity sizing as the denim will stretch considerably from the tagged size when worn.
Usually with APC jeans, people size down 1-2 sizes from their actual waist size. If you have a 32” waist, we would recommend trying on a 31 for a classic fit or a 30 for a more narrow fit. Jeans up to size 30 tend to have an inseam of 32-34″ and larger sizes 34-36″.
Let’s take a look at the four main fits that A.P.C produce in their raw denim; New Standard, Petit Standard, New Cure and Rescue.
The New Standard is essentially the brand’s most ‘standard’ jean and fits regularly in both the rise and the waist. The jean has a straight leg and tapers only slightly from the knee to hem. Normally, wearers like to size down between 1-3 sizes on these. They are a straight leg cut, with wider leg openings and a very regular profile. The jeans still taper slightly and are quite slimming, but less so than the New Cure or Petit Standard.
The more you size down, the slimmer the leg will be from the knee down. The New Standard can be worn baggy or tight, depending on which size you go for. The sizing on the black New Standards is a little different due to the denim being affected by a different dye, but this does not affect the overall sizing of the jean. The raw black do fit a little tighter due to the nature of the dye, but because they are APC the stretching property of the denim remains the same and the jeans will still stretch and confirm to your body. Bear in mind that these jeans will shrink a little if you decide to soak them.
The Petit Standard is one of the newer fits from APC and is essentially a middle ground combination of the New Standard and the New Cure. Over recent years it has become one of the most popular fits. It’s best to think of the Petit Standard as a slimmer version of the New Standard with a lower rise. It is now available in Raw Black denim.
Out of the four main cuts, the New Cure is the skinniest jean of the group with a low rise and no visible selvedge line. The New Cure tapers all the way down from the thigh to the hem, resulting in a much more narrow silhouette. This should be perfect fit for you if you’re looking for an exceptional quality skinny jean. Most people choose to size down 1-2 on these but like other APC jeans, they do stretch considerably after a couple weeks of wear. The New Cure is an updated version of the original Cure jean, which seems now to be the women’s version of the New Cure.
The Rescue is APC’s full cut jean and is cut with a very true straight leg and a full rise. While being a looser, more roomy jean the Rescue still boasts a clean, contemporary APC silhouette. All in all, this is a fuller, straighter and more utilitarian cut. The thigh is considerably wider than the New Standard and from the knee down the cut tapers minimally. This is usually the cut of choice for people with wider legs as it is cut fuller. Many people size down 1-2 from the tagged size to achieve a comfortable fit.
APC’s indigo jeans are made from selvage denim fabric, which is a strong, high quality denim made on an old-style shuttle loom. You can see if a pair of jeans are made from selvedge fabric by turning up the cuff and looking for the selvedge edges where the fabric meets. The only exception with the selvage line is in the New Cure cut. The jeans are made out of the same selvage denim as the other jeans, but the jean is so narrow at the hem that APC were unable to show the selvage line.
Getting a pair of APC’s to fit perfectly can be a tricky business. However, the best way to fade and crease the jeans to your body is to WEAR THEM! Most people recommend not washing them for at least 6 months so that the fabric has time to set in and mold to you. This means that when it comes to washing, the fades and wear will giev you a more personal look. The best thing about raw denim though is that there aren’t really any rules. There’s nothing stopping you throwing them in the wash first so they wear softer. You should always wash raw jeans by themselves so the indigo does not bleed onto your other clothing.
Whenever you decide to soak your APCs, it is generally best to soak them for 2 hours in hot water. After two hours, take them out, pat out the excess water and hang dry. If you’d like to stretch them a little, wear them dry. Wearing your jeans dry is also the most effective way to stretch them out if you think they may have shrunk a little too much.
If you do decide to wear your new APCs for two years without washing them, they can start to smell a little. There are a few methods you can try to combat any odours! Firstly, soaking. Don’t be afraid to soak your jeans using them method above. The denim should fade faster after a soak and the jeans will smell less. If you’re totally against your jeans touching any water, try a fabric deodorant such as Febreeze. It isn’t harmful to your jeans and is quite a quick fix.